In The Beginning There Was A Castle…

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Some three years ago we began our shift from one ancient Shropshire town and into another: out of Much Wenlock and into Bishop’s Castle. The first was a settlement that grew up outside the walls of Wenlock Priory, its inhabitants subject to rule by Prior until the Dissolution in 1542. The second evolved, or rather descended from a hillside motte and bailey castle, built around the 1080s by the Bishops of Hereford, owners of the surrounding manor lands of Lydbury North.

Bishops Castle Motte and bailey Old Castle Land Trust

Notional reconstruction of the earth and timber motte and bailey of 1080s CE

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The castle was deemed essential for the defence of the manor, given its location close to the Welsh border and potential raiding parties. It also served as an administrative centre for running the estate, gathering taxes and holding courts to maintain law and order. The Bishops had pastoral duties too, but for the ordinary souls who lived and worked on their lands, their worldly purpose was to produce good crops and profits for their landlords, who in turn had their own obligations to the Crown. It was big business then; a feudal corporation.

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It is not clear how the bishops of a town nearly 40 miles away came to own Lydbury North, a highly profitable farming domain. But, as often happened in medieval times, there was a handy legend to lend  authority to claims of possession. (In Much Wenlock it was the apparent 11th century discovery of St. Milburga’s shining seventh century bones that helped turn the town into a busy pilgrim centre).

In similar vein, the Bishop’s Castle legend has it that around the 790s CE, the original Lydbury North owner, Saxon lord, Egwin Shakehead, was so grateful to have his tremors cured at St. Ethelbert’s tomb in Hereford Cathedral, he gave the 18,000 acre estate to the bishops in perpetuity. It is a compelling blend of antique ‘authority’ and saintly miracle, probably politically expedient in the immediate post-Conquest era of the Norman regime change.

The Bishops’ motte and bailey was thus built in line with the prevailing Norman subjugation plan to establish fortifications across England and Wales. The earth and timber mottes were fairly quick to construct. Later they would be rebuilt in stone, depending on strategic need. But in any event, they were highly visible structures to remind the Saxons and Celtic Welsh of who was in charge.

It was also Norman policy to develop civilian settlements next to their castles, this to secure the site and to ensure neighbouring land was cultivated. And so began the ‘planted’ town of Bishop’s Castle with the provision of dwellings for rent. These were established either side the castle’s main access road, running down from the outer bailey walls and towards the church.

townhall view

Now you need to look at the High Street with fresh eyes: strip away all those slate roofs and hugger-mugger back-lot buildings. See, not the tall eighteenth and nineteenth century facades, but low, timber-framed, thatched dwellings fronting the road. Behind each cottage would be a long narrow garden or burgage plot for the tenant’s use. At the foot of these, on both sides and running parallel to the main street, were ‘back lanes’. And beyond the lanes, to the east and west, were the town fields.

You can get the gist from this rather blurry photo from one of the town’s information boards.

town plan

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By 1167 there were 47 burgages, and the town was on the up. At that time, too, the castle was rebuilt in stone, and grand enough to host both bishops’ and royal visitations.

This following reconstruction is again notional, but it suggests there was both an outer bailey with service buildings such as stables, stores, brewery and bakehouse, and a defended inner bailey surrounding the main castle keep.

Bishop's Castle Old Land Trust reconstuction

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Over the following centuries the ‘new town’ prospered. Weekly markets and annual fairs were well supported, and local trades, servicing both castle and general populace, likewise flourished. The bishops continued to reap the benefit of course, and it wasn’t until 1559 that they lost control. Queen Elizabeth 1 forced the then Bishop Scory to surrender his four richest manors to the Crown in return for less wealthy ones. (The Bishop had been implicated in a domestic financial scandal). The exchange included Bishop’s Castle.

At this time, too, there was a Crown survey of the castle. It recorded the presence of thirteen habitable rooms, the roofs leaded. There was a tower containing stables on the east wall, a prison tower, dovecote and other buildings. The castle had its own garden, forest and park.*

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There are few signs of the castle today, apart from the Castle Green (cared for by Old Castle Land Trust), a small grassy segment of the original bailey.

Castle Green

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The castle played no role in the Civil War of the mid 1600s. In fact by then it was reported derelict, with its roofs stripped of lead, and its stone and timbers used in developing the town’s housing. The recycling of materials probably became a matter of course. One beneficiary was The Castle Hotel, built in 1719 within the outer bailey.

Castle Hotel

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Around this time, too, the site of the castle keep, which was further up the steep hill behind the hotel, was levelled to make a fine octagonal bowling green. Both the green and the restored octagonal pavilion are still in use today.

bowling green pavilion

The Bowling Green Pavilion

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So here we are at the bowling green at the top of the town. But for the best view we need to drop down a level to the garden above The Castle Hotel (its rooftops in the foreground).

Castle Eye view of the town

I’m guessing I was standing near or within the site of the inner bailey when I took this photo. And am I sorry there’s no castle rampart left to clamber up and take more dramatic photos? No, not really. Castles can be exciting structures, but I’m thinking our response to them often has more to do with romance than reality.

I’ve anyway learned that the born-and-bred locals call their castle-less town ‘the Castle’, its utterance conveying a strong sense of community and long rootedness, yet with fellow-feeling enough to absorb generations of blow-ins; people like us. And so it seems that although the castle fabric may be long gone, what remains feels a better kind of stronghold.

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Sources:

*The Story of Bishop’s Castle 2018 eds David Preshous, George Baugh, John Leonard, Gavin Watson, Andrew Wigley; Logaston Press

Bishop’s Castle: A Timeline of Governance Bishop’s Castle Heritage Resource Centre

Copyright 2026 Tish Farrell

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2025 Favourites: Looking Back To Ynys Mon

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We didn’t go far last year, but we did spend a week on the North Wales island of Anglesey (Ynys Môn). We often go for Christmas, but this time we were there in late March. As ever, the view across the Menai Strait to the Welsh mainland came with its own enthralling light and shadow show, from the sublime to the mistily mysterious. It was hard to tear ourselves away.

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More Anglesey posts:

In a winter’s light: Ynys Mon

Island of old ghosts

The day the sun fell into Henllys Woods and other stories

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Lens-Artists: Favourites from 2025 Tina starts the year by showing us the stunning land- and seascapes of her Kiawah Island home.

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Year’s End At The Castle: The Changing Seasons

Christmas Day Long Mynd west

Here’s how our world looked on Christmas morning we drove from our side of the Long Mynd to a family gathering on the other side. Above, the westerly face, a sinuous small portion. Then below, some easterly features.  It’s a very long hill.

Christmas Day Long Mynd east

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My sister’s home is perched on its foothills near Church Stretton. She looks out on Ragleth Hill: the backdrop to the day’s festivities, the deepening glow in ice-cold air while, indoors, lunch simmered and roasted and the wood stove crackled. Much laughter and chatter; the chink of wine glasses; rustle of wrapping paper. It was the finest Christmas Day, the sun alone a gift after the weather people’s threat of snow and earlier weeks of heavy rain.

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Backtracking to mid-December and in the midst of gloomy wetness, we took ourselves off to next door Clun. Well water-proofed and wandering the lanes, we ended up at the Postcard Cafe beside the old Clun bridge. It seemed a good spot to lift the spirits:

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Years ago it was a quirky little tea-room that also had trays of old postcards for sale. Now it’s bright and cosy resort,  playing cool jazz and serving Brazilian coffee along with slices of the cook’s signature cardamom and ginger cake, and much else besides.

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Meanwhile outside, the Clun River was threatening to leave its bed. It’s often guilty of serious flooding along the valley. Not so back in the summer, when the cafe’s clientele would spread themselves out at tables and chairs set out along the river bank, while the cafe’s staff would trot across the road with trays of cake and coffee, dodging the odd passing car. It was a pleasing reminder of warmer, drier days with no rain at all. (Though I do remember complaining about that!)

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But enough of rain. Back to Bishop’s Castle, and another cold and sunny day on the High Street. Please note: this street will feature later, though not quite so emptily.

High St, Bishop's Castle, Dec 25

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And so to Boxing Day and a lively gathering at the town’s ancient pub and brewery, The Three Tuns. It was a freezing cold morning so a big round of applause for Martha Rhoden’s Tuppenny Dish dancers and the Shropshire Bedlams morris men…

Tupenny Dish

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Bedlams 1

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Later there was a performance of Castle Carols, by folks of Bishop’s Castle and the Clun Valley singing their hearts out. Choirmaster, local accordion-squeeze box magician, John Kirkpatrick, had schooled them well in ancient and traditional versions of English carols. He’s also the power behind the traditional dance teams.

Castle Carols

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This well reveals the Bishop’s Castle conundrum. The town so often wears a dreamy, not-much-happening face, but looks can deceive. I was thus sorry I’d missed a sighting of the local rugby club’s now annual charity fundraiser – the Boxing Day Boxer Run – wherein the brave run a circuit of the town, starting at the King’s Head pub, and wearing only their underpants. A chum told us he’d spotted twenty one of them charging up the very steep High Street. They raised over £500 this year.  I’ll leave you with that image, then, as I wish all who come here a very

Happy New Year

and some cheery singing from Castle Carols:

The Changing Seasons: December 2025   Ju-Lyn at Touring My Backyard and Brian at Bushboys World are our very good hosts for posts of the month just gone. Many thanks, both.

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