Taita Continued ~ Of Red-Billed Hornbills

The hornbill in the photo is not the one I’m going to talk about – for reasons that will shortly become clear.

It was a quiet afternoon at the Taita Hills Hilton. The lunch-time safari vans had come and gone. I’d been writing letters, sitting in the shade by the teardrop pool (see previous post). Its heavenly blue, the shimmer of it, was mesmerizing, as were Robert’s passes with the pool net. The lack of guests meant he could take his time sifting out the tiny acacia leaves and assorted bugs. He moved quietly and with ease. My attention drifted.

And then Robert was at my side. Would madam like to see something very interesting. I must have looked doubtful because he assured me I did not need to go far. I then noticed he was holding a moth between thumb and forefinger. It looked dead. But this wasn’t it. He led me to the largest of the poolside flame trees, had me stand directly in front of the trunk. Look, he said, holding the moth towards the tree. In a trice it was gone. Something had moved, but I could not see what.

Robert pointed to a slit in the bark. I leaned forward and saw that behind the slit was a hollow. A very dark hollow. Except for two bright, beady eyes looking straight back at me. It was a very odd experience – to be watched from inside a tree. It was then I noticed how close my nose was to a shadowy scimitar bill. I stepped back.

Robert found another bug and held it near the slit. Another twitch of the air. And that’s when he told me about the remarkable nesting habits of the hornbill family. The mating pair find a suitably hollow tree, he said. The female then allows herself to be imprisoned, the male building up a mud and dung walled nest around her. A small opening is left so he can deliver food. And there the female stays until the eggs are laid and hatched. When all becomes too crowded in the nest, the female breaks out, and the parents then rebuild the mud wall and continue to feed the chicks through the slit until they are ready to fledge.

Well!

Robert then alerted me to the fact that the male was hovering nearby, waiting with the food delivery. We quietly withdrew. And then my new wildlife guide wanted to know what I was doing in Kenya. I told him how Graham was working on a project to control the Larger Grain Borer (LGB), an imported pest of grain stores, and that there were plans to introduce a predator beetle to reduce its numbers. Robert then said he hoped the predator would not cause harm to Taita’s butterflies. I assured him that it had been meticulously screened to have no impact on anything but LGB.

It was some eighteen months later when I talked to him again. In the interim Graham and I had been in Zambia, and when we returned to Taita Hills I found that the hornbill tree had been felled, was nothing but a stump. I was so surprised I remarked on it to the pool attendant, at which point we recognised each other. Robert then recounted all I had told him about the LGB project in the Taita Hills. I was very touched. It was as if he had thought often about our one previous conversation, as day in and day out he gracefully sieved bugs and leaves from the teardrop pool that shimmered like a mirage.

P.S. On later visits we found Robert had been promoted to camel handler; at least one assumes it was a promotion. The camels in question were ever surly creatures. Here he is in the hotel garden; the Taita Hills during the short rains.

Birds of the Week

#SeeingRed Day 22

On The Road To Taveta ~ The Taita Hilton*

Caught in some dreamworld – it was often how it seemed that first year in Kenya. And nowhere verged more on the surreal than the Taita Hills Hilton*. A 5-star hotel in the bush. There it lies beside the road and rail to Taveta and the Tanzanian border. It is the territory of William Boyd’s First World War novel An Ice-Cream War, of a failing sisal plantation and border skirmishes between German Count Von Lettow Vorbeck’s Tanganyikan askaris and Kenyan British forces backed by coerced young Africans of the Carrier Corps.

And it is the place we often stayed when Graham was overseeing field work experiments up in the Taita Hills. After breakfast he would drive up the mountain to Mgange to speak with farmers and check on the Larger Grain Borer’s voracious appetite for stored maize…

…and I would start my day, reading or writing beside the hotel pool. The pool was shaped like a teardrop, shaded on its southerly edge by flame trees. A thick hedge protected the garden from the adjacent wildlife reserve, the land there a failed sisal plantation run back to wilderness.

I’d look out there for hours, watching impala or zebra, sometimes giraffe nibbling the thorn trees, their slow passage through the brush; the soundscape a fizz of insects, swelling ever louder as the day warmed, the non-stop call of ring-necked doves, both strains somehow fusing into the heat haze that shimmered over the bush country. You can see how it might drive you mad. Meanwhile, inside the garden, a hosepipe hissed and swished, watering the lawn, where clouds of black butterflies with azure flashes came to sip.

The hotel was usually very quiet in the mornings. The staff went about their daily chores, tidying, sweeping, making ready for the next arrivals. I often saw them in the garden quietly picking hibiscus flowers to put in the rooms or to decorate the dining tables.

Garden tidying – a never ending job

The maintenance men

Around noon, fleets of safari vans, up from Mombasa, or down from Amboseli, would start arriving, their occupants spilling out, mostly young folk clothed in skimpy beach wear. They would be welcomed into the great hall with gentle decorum, glasses of chilled fruit juice set out on flower decked trays, but the tide of newcomers could never be quite contained – the rush to the bar, the scramble to join the lunch queue in the baronial dining room. Those tourists who did check in, usually only stayed one night and were off after breakfast. And so we became the centre of enthusiastic attention from the hotel staff. We stayed longer; five days on one occasion. ‘That’s almost a week,’ one waiter told us approvingly; we were doing them and the place proud.

In the garden, somewhat oddly, were a trio of camels, kept for those moments when a tourist might have a burning ambition to ride one. They didn’t go far, just to the end of garden and along the edge of the reserve. Once on a family visit, our seven year old niece, Sarah, surprised us all by being very sure that she wanted a ride. Such savoir faire on the dromedary front. Here she is with Robert the camel fundi. Ah, how time passes. She’s now a chemical engineer working in fusion technology.

Taita Hills garden and the reserve beyond

In my wanderings about the place, I discovered I could climb up to the hotel roof. Sometimes, towards sundown, if Graham hadn’t returned from the mountain, I’d go up there and lean on the parapet, looking out for the Land Rover on the Taveta road. All around swifts and swallows swooped and swirled and, briefly, I’d think of the Shropshire home I’d left, and that soon these small birds would be leaving for their English summer.

And once when I was up there at twilight, the day fading fast, and no sign of headlights on the road, I saw shadow elephants crossing the railway line. At that moment Africa felt very very large. Unfathomable. Another dreaming interlude.

*now the Taita Hills Sarfari Resort & Spa

#SimplyRed Day 20

The Nairobi Elephant Orphans

Undoubtedly an ‘aaaah’ moment, but don’t be misled. Nairobi’s elephant orphanage is not about elephant pets. It’s about rearing orphaned infants so they can be returned to the wild. This is a painstaking process, using techniques derived from years of experience by Daphne Sheldrick. She established the orphanage in 1977 in memory of her husband, David Sheldrick. He was the founding warden of Tsavo East National Park (see previous post), appointed to the task of creating the park out of the Taru Desert thornscrub in 1948. For the next 25 years he, with Daphne alongside, laboured there to create access to the 5,000 square miles of wilderness reserve that visitors can enjoy today.

Part of the Sheldricks’ day to day living at Tsavo involved rescuing orphaned and injured animals. There were losses as well as successes but this work sowed the seeds of the orphanage to come. Daphne had learned that elephant infants die without constant emotional support. She also struggled to make an appropriate milk formula. Finally she evolved the system that provided each infant with its own keeper who, as surrogate mother, would be with it at all times, including sleeping with it.

Once the infants begin to thrive and grow, they are taken out for walks in nearby Nairobi National Park to begin their bush education. Later, when they grow too big for the orphanage, they are transferred to Tsavo East to continue their education. So far over 300 elephants have been returned to the wild.

Daphne died in 2018 and the enterprise, which extends to conservation initiatives beyond the orphanage, is now run as the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust by her daughter Angela Sheldrick. The website is well worth browsing.

But for the process of raising an infant and re-establishing it in the wild go HERE

For more about the pioneering work of David Sheldrick go HERE.

#SimplyRed Day 18

“The Red Elephants Of Tsavo East”…

… so called because of their habit of dousing themselves with Tsavo’s iron-rich soil.

Tsavo East is one the largest parks in the world, covering 5,000 square miles. Together with its neighbour, Tsavo West, on the other side of the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, this adds up to nearly 9,000 square miles of designated wildlife reserve.

The map gives little clue of Tsavo East’s vast wilderness. The solid drawn lines of the designated parks suggest containment, but this is not the case. While areas near human settlement maybe fenced, elsewhere the boundaries are largely permeable. In 1994 the then director of Kenya Wildlife Service, Dr. David Western, famously stated that there was more wildlife outside the parks than in them. He also believed in protecting the free movement of animals, and especially in the one small park whose access was increasingly under threat from human settlement, i.e. Nairobi’s city park. This is still an ongoing issue, the one-time corridor from the southerly plains all but closed.

The business of maintaining wildlife areas is fraught with problems. Elephants may invade farms and destroy a season’s food crops in a few moments. In times of drought, starving farmers may resort to age-old habits of hunting game for food. It is also a fact that elephants can kill people if they feel threatened. Lions and buffalo and crocodiles kill people too. Then there is ivory poaching, small-scale and big-crime funded. The latter comes with highly armed gangs with automatic weapons. So it’s hats off to wildlife rangers who try to do their best by all concerned, and may risk their own lives in the process.

I don’t seem to have many photos from our stay in Tsavo East. I remember the weather was mostly gloomy and driving along dirt tracks for hours without seeing a thing. But the photos at this site are well worth a look.

#SimplyRed Day 17

Once On Mombasa Beach

Our first stint in Kenya was meant to be for three months. It stretched to nine, a long time to be away from home when none of it had been planned. On our return to the UK in September ‘92 we weren’t sure what would happen next. But come November we were flying off to Lusaka, Zambia, on another short-term contract.

This time Graham was seconded to the EU Delegation to take charge of the Commission’s food aid distribution. Zambia had been suffering a prolonged drought, but as it happened, and fortunately too, our arrival coincided with a return of good planting rains; food aid was only needed to bridge the gap until harvest time. And so once again, like strange migrating birds, we left Africa in September. And once again, two months later, we were heading back again, to Kenya on yet another short-term contract, this time to close down the Larger Grain Borer project based at the Kiboko research station. This was the project Graham had been attached to as a consultant in 1992. (See previous post).

A year later, we were still in Kenya, one contract having evolved into another. In December ‘94 Graham, as head of the UK crop protection project, had to chair a three-day agriculture conference in Mombasa. I went too and, as I had the use of a rather good camera, I spent my days sitting under a palm tree in the hotel garden, looking out on a slice of Indian Ocean, sometimes taking photos of the passing beach traffic.

Hotel beachfronts around the world are places where business is done. Mombasa beach is no different and young Kenyan traders are smart, quick to cater to all tourist wants. The Akamba wood carvings and makeshift stalls of kanga wraps are among the more innocent lines of merchandise, although often the means of making contact and enabling further transactions.

Needless to say the deemed exoticism of Maasai morani (young men of the warrior age set) can hold a particular appeal to visiting women of a certain age. So much so, enterprising lads of other upcountry communities might don the gear and pass themselves off as Maasai, or so a Kenyan friend told me.

That said, I’d bet that the young man in the header is Maasai, that lilting stride and spare frame. He could be a member of one of the traditional dance troupes employed by the big hotels. These next guys, though, look more like beach-wise traders with their made-for-tourists weaponry. Very cool sunspecs and matching kanga wrap though:

#SimplyRed Day 16

Caught Red-Handed

Whenever Graham had work to do at the Kiboko research station we stayed at Hunter’s Lodge. It was just next door, and the hotel manager allowed Graham a key to the back garden gate so he could come and go on foot rather than driving the long way round. The Lodge had been built around the late 1950s for the big game hunter, John Hunter. It was sited near his favourite waterhole, beside the Nairobi – Mombasa highway, just north of Makindu, and this was the place he chose for his retirement after a long career as safari guide and game controller.

At some time in the sixties the site was expanded into a motel with a small block of architect designed guest rooms overlooking the pool. (In his day, Hunter had dammed the Kiboko River that fed the waterhole and so created a garden lake). For a time the place had a heyday, being the weekend spot for British expatriates, or the main overnight stopover for anyone driving to or from Mombasa. Then the highway was improved with a layer of tarmac, and the clientele drove on by.

When we stayed there in the ‘90s it was unusual to find any other guests. The Lodge staff anyway had their own regime that ticked over nicely irrespective of visitors. Now and then some Kenyan government agency might hold a seminar there or an overland truck might be allowed to park up and its occupants to camp on the lawn. Once I met an Israeli water engineer who was consulting on a nearby project. Otherwise, my main companions by day were Joyce the chambermaid and an astonishment of birdlife.

And vervet monkeys.

The vervets kept a keen eye on us. They soon learned we had supplies in our room – especially highly desirable bananas, and packs of raisins and nuts. We brought these to make up for the limited Lodge menu of cheese sandwiches, omelettes and steak and chips. But any unguarded moment and there would be a raid. I once came out of the bathroom to find three monkey faces peering up at me from under the bed.

The vervet in the header had clearly pounced while I was distracted with some bird watching out on the lawn (viz. empty binoculars case). And with over 200 local species, the distractions were many – from tiny malachite kingfishers to the giants whose diving technique seemed set to empty the pool. There were also pied and brown hooded kingfishers, ibis, storks, herons and weaver birds, and once, a lone pelican that dropped in from who knows where.

Days at Hunter’s Lodge were like a waking dream, soundtrack the high-tension whine of insects, muffled rumble of trucks along the highway, clatter of stork bills up in the fever trees and sometimes the chime of a bell calling the gardeners and chamber-maids to their tea breaks.

#SimplyRed Day 13

Six On Saturday ~ Still Waiting For Rain

The evening garden

This gardener is beginning to panic. After weeks of rainlessness, we’re now having a spike in temperatures – the peak today at 29 or 30 degrees, depending which weather forecast you consult. Thereafter, hopefully, we should feel a decline of several degrees, with finally a promise of rain next week.

But then we’ve had these promises several times over the last three months, with only one good downpour that yielded 8 watering cans’ worth from the shed water butt. And that was ages ago.

1. Hand watering is all very well, but it really only keeps plants ticking over. Or in the case of my onions and first sown carrots doesn’t. I pulled them up yesterday. They had simply stopped growing.

2. Also my single seed potato in a bucket had had enough by yesterday. This was one I couldn’t fit into my planting row, so I thought I’d trial it in a container. Stopping it from drying out was of course an issue. And the bucket itself was making it very hot. All the same, when I emptied it, I was quite impressed with this little haul.

The Rooster spuds in the ground are still holding their own for now, so I’m hoping for a reasonable harvest. We’ve eaten most of the Belle de Fontenay, and I’ve popped in a few peas where she’s left some space.

3. In the bean corner things are looking fairly hopeful. Beans respond well to mulching, and anyway make some of their own shade. I’d also prepared a compost filled trench for the runners in the winter. The dwarf borlotti beans, planted out in front, are also sheltering the runners’ roots. They don’t seem to mind being hot and are already forming pods. A slight error in labelling has resulted in some of the dwarf borlotti in the row requiring sticks, which is annoying. I have the taller variety growing up some trellis against next door’s garage – i.e. in the once horridly hypericum infested wall-bed on our boundary.

This year I have a real mix of runner bean varieties. For some reason I had problems getting any of my seeds to germinate well, new and not so new packets alike. I ended up re-sowing, and putting in a few Scarlet Emperor seedlings bought from the butcher’s to be going on with. My small row thus also has some white Moonlight, red Lady Di and one Painted Lady which has very pretty white and red flowers although they’re looking pink at the moment.

4. In the nonedible quarters, Penelope rose is still blooming hard, although the other roses have given up flowering now. I love her. She is like a wild rose, but with added flounces. And she smells delicious.

5. Also my favourite Morning Glories have begun to live up to their name and are putting on an early-day show. I’ve planted them out everywhere where there’s something to climb up, amongst the beans and sunflowers, up the trellis disguising the oil tank. Hopefully, if it does rain next week, they will really get going, and hopefully, too, keep flowering until the first frost as they did last year.

6. And another success has been the sweet peas. Although the ones in the front garden are now beginning to fry round the edges, this despite the watering and mulching. Also, given my non-orderly manner of cultivation – randomly up an obelisk and a trellis, they have grown rather short stems. My dear Pa would have been aghast. He used to grow his in regimented tall-cane rows, with set watering intervals to ensure evenly spaced blooms along each dead straight stem. Then he would lovingly count them, five and six big flower heads, usually. And then he would snip a bunch of the best and take them off to his latest lady friend. Mother rarely got a look in when it came to sweet peas.

I’ve tried taking a photo of ours outside, but they don’t look their best. So here’s one of the several small vases we have about the house. Wall-to-wall sweet pea scent, a soothing antidote to moments of over-heatedness.

Six On Saturday Please visit our host Jim. Lots of interesting plants in his garden today.

Red Earth, Red Roofs…

In my last post I mentioned my sense of shrinking horizons now we no longer live in far-flung places. Those who come here often were quick to see I didn’t mean this in a negative sense. It’s more about feeling satisfied in the place and space we occupy. I don’t need to go anywhere else – though that said, a little trip to the nearest seaside before summer ends might be welcome. But paddling prospects aside, these days I am happy to look out on the hills and farmland around the town, and inwardly at the motley fabric of this ancient border settlement, a place which locals call the Castle.

But then on these warm July days, I can’t help slipping back to Kenya, to Hunter’s Lodge, an oasis of a place that was pretty much ‘home’ in our first nomadic days in Africa. The research station where Graham was carrying out experiments on an imported crop pest, larger grain borer, was up a track behind the lodge garden. While he toiled, I sat under a thorn tree and dreamed. Did I really see Maasai women in their full red regalia delivering the hotel milk from gourds slung on a donkey…or a kingfisher the size of a crow strike the pool like some avian pile-driver…

More of this story in several places including: No way back from Africa – the road to Hunter’s Lodge

Also Once in Africa, Kenya Diary Continued and In an equatorial light

#SimplyRed Day 11

It Seemed Like A Big Day Out

We’ve not been gadding for ages. He who builds sheds has been much occupied during our rainless days, taking the internal house doors off their hinges and, one by one, stripping them down and repainting them. As may be imagined with a hundred year old house, there are many layers to remove. He’s working outside with wallpaper stripping gun which peels off ancient gloss and varnish like a dream.

It was during one such operation on the cloakroom door that we decided opaque glass panels in the upper door half would make for more light in the neighbouring gloomy utility room. Glass panels were duly ordered and on Friday we set off (from the somewhat isolated fastness of Bishop’s Castle) to collect them.

This involved a twenty mile drive to our county town of Shrewsbury. We’d not been there for over two years, not since our house selling days and foiled attempts to find a rental property there. In some ways the prospect of this outing made me realize how our horizons have shrunk, though not in a bad way. But once our life was repeated long haul flights between UK and Africa. Now, I feel I’ve been on a journey if we go to next door Clun, eight miles away or to Montgomery, just over the Welsh border. But then both those places are so lovely, each in their own particular ways, what else could one want?

One of the reasons the Shrewsbury trip turned into a haul was because the main route out of Bishop’s Castle was closed and we were sent on a diversion, wending back and forth between Wales and Shropshire. But it was a sunny day and the countryside, with its undulating hillscapes, glorious, so why should we complain. We even had a red leg partridge step into the lane in front of us. (It withrew unscathed). And there were buzzards and red kites high in the blue, wafting over newly mown hayfields, the roadside hedgerows full of wildflowers – honeysuckle, willow herb.

After such bucolic byways, Shrewsbury with its multiple bypasses (internal and external), huge traffic islands, and peripheral industrial estates and retail zones is something of a culture shock. But the old town itself, on a hill and cupped in a loop of the River Severn, has been going since at least Saxon times, and so has many ancient and scenic parts. These days, too, it is cafe culture central. Just look at this LINK.

And one of the best locations for eating out is Shrewsbury Market. Which is where we headed (after negotiating the ring roads and industrial quarters) for a spot of lunch at the Moli Tea House. To say their exquisitely served Asian offerings are delicious is an understatement – tiny Chinese dumplings with dipping sauce, delicate meat balls served in a crisp lettuce leaf wrap. Heavenly.

Later, we wandered around the stalls of artisan bread, fresh vegetables, farm eggs and meat, looked at what people were enjoying in the other eateries, bought some fresh fish. Then headed back to our border refuge, to the Castle that has no castle, this time on the truck-roaring A49, the main highway south, which is quicker if further. We were anyway glad to leave it behind, back to the quietness of our home terrain and a restful cup of tea.

#SimplyRed Day 9

Red Brick

It’s very nearly two years since we moved into The Gables, a modest little house, built in the early 1920s by a local builder. It stands on ground that once belonged to the smithy and The Hit Or Miss pub further up the street. (Both now family homes).

The move from Much Wenlock had been protracted: selling our cottage had taken time. Then there was six months in a rented house while we found somewhere to buy. It gave us chance to do some serious de-cluttering, but all the same we knew we would not fit comfortably into our new house without building a new kitchen. And so we bought it with that notion in mind.

We began, then, with something of the gamble. The Gables is in the Bishop’s Castle conservation area. Planning approval would be required, and our encounters with planning authorities in the past had not always gone well. We engaged local architectural designer, Henry Beddoes, to take care of the plans and the application. After all, it was scarcely an ambitious project replacing an old heat-leaking, plastic conservatory with a properly insulated room.

Even so, waiting for approval was still nerve-wracking. It took several months.

When it came to the actual plans, the site itself was anyway problematical. The south end of the conservatory was right on the boundary with a roadside verge, and most of the rest was nestled into the overgrown bank and hedge. There was not much room to manoeuvre, either outwards or upwards.

Flat roofs are never ideal, but a sloping roof that did not obscure the upstairs windows and had a good enough incline would have markedly reduced the height of the living space. (See previous post for internal restructuring.) And so instead we have a lantern skylight and some leaded nifty brickwork round the parapet. It seemed to us a reasonable compromise, not overburdening the existing house either in scale or fanciness. Builder Alan also cleaned and re-used all the conservatory bricks, and took pains to source new ones that were as near as possible to the 1920s fabric.

And so there you have it: the Farrell domain…plain and unassuming, but ever so well built and insulated.

#SimplyRed Day 8

Tish Farrell

Writer on the Edge