Day’s end and a gathering of Grevy’s zebra, the largest and most northerly race of zebra-kind. It was a chance encounter. For two hours Kevin, our Chagga guide had been driving us along the dirt tracks of the Lewa Downs reserve. It was new territory to us; our first trip to northern Kenya from our then home-town of Nairobi. The landscapes were breath-taking, sweeping rangelands, pale grasses, beetling gorges, the distant gauzy backdrop of the Matthews Range.
Earlier we had stopped to follow a Greater Kudu family on foot. They were moving in single file up a steep bush trail. We lingered under a thorn tree and in the late day light, watched as they melted one by one into dappled cover. Then it was back to the truck and more trail bashing, the only sign of wildlife, massive piles of elephant dung on the track, and some torn up thorn trees where the herd had passed.
We scanned the bush country all round for a glimpse of them, but they were gone, or at least we could not see them, which is not the same thing. Elephants are invisibility specialists. No matter. As I said, the country was magnificent, the light like liquid amber, and the air filled with the soothing scent of acacia blossom. Lemony with tones of jasmine. As ever, out in the bush, all felt like a dream.
And by now, too, the sun had dropped behind the mountains, the light fading fast. We headed back to camp, and it was then, as we rounded a bend on the trail, we met the zebra. There was only just enough light left to take their photo, but they obligingly stood perfectly still.
And just in case you’re wondering what the difference is between Grevy’s and the plains zebras, here’s another sundowner scene, this time from the Maasai Mara far to the south:
These are Common or Burchell’s Zebra, smaller than the Grevy’s. Their all-over, widely spaced stripes are thicker; ears pointed to Grevy’s endearingly round. Their social habits are different too, the plains’ zebra living in family groups with much grooming between members while their cousins appear to move in less structured gatherings.
But what about the stripes, you may ask: is every zebra’s livery unique?
It is hard to be sure from the Grevy’s portrait, though I’m thinking it’s highly likely. But when it comes to the plains’ cousins, I have told the tale before of how once in Zambia, on a New Year’s Day game drive, a rather tipsy guide waxed lyrical about the very particular patterns on each zebra’s ‘butticles’, and how it was by such means that zebra offspring recognised their respective mamas. I don’t know about the last bit, but these two photos from Nairobi National Park certainly prove a point, final blurry butticle shot aside: the stripes truly do not match.
Tish Farrell 
Tish, your description of the brush country, including the light and the smell are poetic and persuasive. Have you thought about accompanying some of your wonderful photos with poetry? Haiku or haibun, have been used to chronicle travels in Japan since the Edo period.
Just a suggestion, no pressure.
I do appreciate your comments, Thom. Many thanks for this one which comes with added inspirational bonus. I haven’t thought of approaching haiku or haibun forms as part of my travel writing, so very much welcome the prod.
A delightful virtual visit to the African bush lands. I could visualize the sights, sounds and smells through your descriptive prose.
Happy to provide a virtual excursion, Pauline.
I always enjoy taking a trip to Africa through your photos and words, although that first shot (or the header and the first) almost made me dizzy…in a good way. 🙂
Dizzy in a good way – I’m rather pleased to be the cause of that effect 🙂
You should be.
Very interesting and what a photo you got in that light’
Thank you, Stephen. Hope all is well with you.
Thanks. All’s well, and hoping you hanging in there too.
These are so lovely, though on my Africa trip we saw so many Zebra that by the second week we hardly noticed them. I suspect none were Grevy’s zebra. And we were also told that the mums go off with their newborn for a few days after birth so the youngster can learn to recognise its mother from the different patterned ‘butticles’
Infant stripe learning – it must be true then 🙂
Lovely account Tish and great photos. “As ever, out in the bush, all felt like a dream.” So true.
Hello, James. Thank you. What with one thing and another (i.e. everything you’ve been discussing lately) to say nothing of the dreadful weather here, I was desperately trying to teleport myself to the bush. Am happy it struck a chord with you too and your Tanzanian journey.
Evocative as always Tish your pictures and prose just fill me with hopes and dreams of travelling again whenever the opportunity presents itself in the (fingers crossed) not too distant future.
Good luck with those travel plans!!!
Fixating on the stripes of a herd of zebra, seeing the individuals melt into an indistinguishable “blob” of stripes, it is easy to believe the theory that it makes it more difficult for predators to single out an individual from the group. Mesmerizing photographs, Tish, and very poetic description of dusk in Africa.
That is so very lovely of you, Dries. Thank you.
Oh, what a fabulously enjoyable post – and I learnt quite a few things too!
Thanks, Margaret. Writing about zebra in rainless terrain seemed like a good diversion for teaming downpours yesterday.
I love zebras but had never really appreciated the differences between the two species – certainly I hadn’t realised they had differently shaped ears! So thank you for that 🙂 And I so loved your descriptions of the bush scents and sights – beautiful!
Many thanks, Sarah.
Oh these zebras are a fantastic idea for this week. Marvelous post and photos 😀
Thank you, Cee. I thought you were taking a break so doubly appreciate your taking time to comment.
Delightful images and imagery. And thanks for giving me my new word of the day; butticles. 🙂
Hello and many thanks, Amanda. Lovely to find you here. It is a good word, isn’t it 🙂
Nice to be here. I am very slack with my WordPress life these days. I have been distracted by the Netflix life. 😀 And other things.
Good to chop and change the distractions.
What a delightful African tidbit this is Tish. I was transported immediately. I remember seeing Grevy’s when I was there and immediately got the difference in the stripes from their plains cousins, but I never noticed the ears! I do love reading of your African adventures.
Alison
Many thanks, Alison. Happy to give you a quick trip back to Africa.
Great series Tish!
Thanks, Anne.
A stunningly beautiful post, and love how bottoms are different. Maybe not one though to try with humans!!
Agreed! On both counts.
🙂
Congratulations! I have featured you this week in CBWC.
I hope your week has been fantastic.
Many thanks, Cee, for the lovely featuring.
My pleasure 😀